Crewel embroidery
Unlike silk or cotton embroidery threads, crewel wool is thicker and creates a raised, dimensional feel to the work. It is usually worked on a closely woven ground fabric, typically linen or cotton.Crewel Embroidery, or Crewelwork, is a decorative form of surface embroidery using wool and a variety of different embroidery stitches to follow a design outline applied to the fabric. Such free standing frames were common parlor furniture in most homes.
The technique is at least a thousand years old. The rectangular canvas mount could tilt and pivot over so that the needleworker could also access the back of the canvas with ease. .
The traditional design styles are often referred to as Jacobean embroidery featuring highly stylised floral and animal designs with flowing vines and leaves. Many different embroidery stitches are used in crewelwork to create a textured and colourful effect. Although nowadays, crewel and free embroidery is generally executed with a small portable hoop, early embroidery was executed on large free standing frames.
A firm fabric is required to support the weight of the stitching. This ensures an even amount of tension in the stitches, so that designs do not become distorted.
More recently crewel is being made on Matka Silk, Cotton Velvet, Rayon Velvet, Silk Organza, Net Fabric and also Jute. The old fashioned pinprick and chalk or prick and pounce methods also work well.
Modern crewel wool is a fine, 2-ply or 1-ply yarn available in many different colours. The crewel technique is not a counted-thread embroidery (like canvas work), but a style of free embroidery. Powdered chalk or pounce material is then forced through the holes onto the fabric using a felt pad in order to replicate the design on the material. Designs range from the traditional to more contemporary patterns.
Crewel wool has a long staple; it is fine and can be strongly twisted. Special Crewel needles or Chenille needles are required, with large eyes and sharp points. The outlines of the design to be worked are often screen printed onto the fabric or can be transferred to plain fabric using modern transfer pens, containing water soluble ink or air soluble ink, or iron-on designs applied using transfer sheets.
This is where the design outlines on paper are pricked with a needle to produce perforations along the lines. Some of the techniques and stitches include: Crewel embroidery is most often used to decorate cushions, curtains, clothing and wall hangings. Unlike canvas work, Crewel embroidery requires the use of an embroidery hoop or frame on which the material is stretched taut and secured prior to stitching.
It was used in the Bayeux Tapestry, in Jacobean embroidery and in the Quaker tapestry. The origin of the word crewel is unknown but is thought to come from an ancient word describing the curl in the staple, the single hair of the wool.
